Just read Anneli Bojstad’s book on Spanish Gardens and it set me thinking about English gardens I love. I’m going to choose 10, which is pretty tough going because I could easily and have written about over 100 gardens before now. So to narrow it down to 10 is not easy. I’m not going to call them the best or must-visit because there will perhaps be many that do not agree with my choice, but here are just some of the gardens I have visited and loved. Most of these can be visited by public transport, I don’t drive, but some I have been on tours to see, so public transport may not be available. There is nothing worse than travelling hours at quite an expense to be disappointed by a garden that has had so much hype. I remember this happening when I visited Hadspen, so I have chosen gardens I was impressed by and I’ll try to give an idea of when I visited because gardens change with seasons, time and owners.
Kew, Surrey
Kew has always been on the top of my list. I just adore it. I love the space, the Palm House, the grass beds and so much more. I have visited at all times of year in all sorts of weather and never been disappointed. I have seen the most wonderful garden displays there and I love it. It’s a gardener’s garden full of rare plants and precious things. There is so much to entertain any gardener no matter what their plant preferences and enough for non gardeners too. Entrance fee is a bit steep but worth it – go in the right spirit that you are helping to contribute to a garden that does contribute something to gardening in general and to education. Take your own food, the cafes are in my opinion awful and over-priced. Used to have a good garden bookshop and gift shop but it has become more commercial and less interesting as the years go by.
Chatsworth House, Derbyshire
Chatsworth House is just a short journey away from me and is the garden I have visited most over the years. My father used to bring the family here and we used to picnic by the river. Now I go into the garden frequently and never object to the entrance fee even though by and large I see the same things most times. Frequent visitng means you notice thaings you did not see before, but familiarity can breed contempt, that has not been the case yet. I visit in spring for the tulips, one year I’ll get back for the peonies, then if not in between I always go again in November for the sculpture exhibition organised by Sotheby’s. Some of the garden features such as the cascade and the emperor’s fountain are much older than you first imagine. Come down the 100 steps instead of climbing up them, great views from the top. Plenty of walks. This garden has so much to offer and I am glad it’s close by as it is one of my favourites for so many reasons – the space is used superbly and there is everything from a pinetum to a maze. It’s all done in great taste. There’s also a farmyard and playground for children. The food is very decent. It’s the only garden shop I know that has interesting items, mainly garden related, good gift shops too. This is the all round performer for any gardener and a great day out.
Fountains Abbey & Studley Royal, North Yorkshire
I remember going to Fountains Abbey as a girl and feeling at peace. When I returned on a sunny day in 2008, that feeling was there still. Monks knew a thing or two about selecting sites and this is one of the most beautiful pieces of land in Yorkshire. Walking from the ancient ruins of the Cistercian Abbey to the spectacular Studley Royal water gardens is nothing but pleasure. I love the clean lines. The views are amazing – it is that green and pleasant land, this England. The tale of originator, John Aislabie is interesting and I won’t spoil it by the one sentence I would give to it here, you can read it elsewhere. Now owned by The National Trust – which means overpriced entrance fee and overpriced cafe but hey ho they are preserving the place for future generations.
St. Michael’s Mount, Cornwall
This is a place of my dreams. It’s a mysterious place and the mystery is greatly enhanced by the fact that it is only accessible on foot at low tide. Otherwise, it can be approached by boat. I love the castle. I love the garden. it’s one of the most dramatic gardens in the world. Not massive, but it’s an impressive feat to garden on terraces like this. Subtropical plants against blue skies and wild seas speak of adventure. I must admit I would not want to garden on such a slope -no one but the mad would, but it is desirable along with a string of gardeners to maintain it. It is not open year round and I would advise visiting on a dry day in summer. It is very exposed and paths can be closed in wet. Also now owned by the national trust – eat elsewhere.
Alnwick Garden, Northumberland
Alnwick was designed for the Duchess by Wirtz, a family of garden designers that I admire very much. I love the backbone of hedges, the cascade (although not as good in my opinion as Chatsworth’s). However the real reason to come here is to see David Austin’s roses so come here when they are in full flower in June (I would not personally visit at any other time). The scent is oh so heady. Then treat yourself to tea and cake in the treehouse – an absolute magical event. Big, almost brash but lovely when the roses are in flower. Apart from a treat in the magical treehouse, I would go into Alnwick to eat. Gift shop not that hot.
Burton Agnes Hall, Yorkshire
What a fabulous garden, abundantly planted so expect to see some wilting, going over and and even maybe weeds in late summer but make allowances for the labour-intensive nature of this garden. It has superb planting full of typical English garden plants. Make sure you go into the house – it is absolutely fantastic. Last visited in 2009, been twice and itch to go more often. Definitely a summer garden. Refreshments and shops are poor but has an interesting artist’s in residence programme.
Levens Hall, Cumbria
I always wanted to visit this garden for its giant topiary, I love anything that is not quite the norm. It did not disappoint when after many years I descended upon its quaint charms. The other areas of the garden are very interesting too and Levens often features unusual and original planting. It is nothing short of fantastic. Even in pouring rain I enjoyed this garden in May. Love the house, very historic. Best rhubarb crumble I have ever eaten too. Don’t miss it.
Holker Hall, Cumbria
The grand English garden full of excellent structure, good choice of plants and a keen designer’s eye. Glorious from May onwards. If you are wanting to see a garden with good bones, this is it. Not a very good cafe and a small food shop.
Beth Chatto, Essex
Yes I do love Beth’s garden and wish avidly that I could stick to her right plant, right place rule. It makes so much sense. This is a plantwoman’s garden and one of the best, much emulated but never bettered. My parents in law lived nearby so I visited regularly in the 80’s and again a few years ago. It’s worth visiting in any season. Nursery attached, sells out of the best plants quickly.
Ok I am down to my last choice and there are at least thirty gardens vying for the spot. I am not going to choose Great Dixter, if only for the reason that I have not visited for so many years, so don’t know what it is like now, but I am sure Fergus keeps it in Christopher Lloyd’s memory – experimenting and improving all the time and planting exciting colour schemes that shock some yet delight all of us who love colour. That was a nifty way of including Great Dixter without counting it as one of my 10 choices.
For number 10 I am going to choose a garden from Somerset and it is a toss up between Hestercombe, Barrington Court, Lytes Cary and Montacute House. Sorry, can’t choose. I know I am really cheating this time, because I have mentioned more than 10 and as soon as I upload I shall think of even more. If you are in Somerset, visit them all. I love the idea of Hestercombe, in reality I found it did not entertain me for long, but my tour to Somerset was at the end of a dry spell and Hestercombe was looking very dry and burned out so I did not have the pleasure of seeing it at its best. Barrington Court – if ever I loved a white garden it was here. Lytes Cary is delightful, small but interesting with good detail. Montacute – could die for the stone alone, love the purple border designed by the very talented and now overlooked Phyllis Reiss.
Photos coming soon
If you have enjoyed this article, you might be interested in my book on gardens around the world in the shop take advantage of the special offer for books in December – buy a printed book, get an eBook of your choice free.
icentra spectabilis ‘Golden Heart’ with Tulipa ‘Spring Green’.
